Fruit tree and berry pruning

Fruit tree pruning is divided into two stages.

Aim to regulate growth, allow light in, and encourage flowers and fruit

Generally prune in winter

-Pruning to shape in the young stages.

Pruning to shape is dependent on the variety and to some extent the shape you want. Basically there are three shapes.

Vase shape - The traditional open centre with 3 to 4 main leaders for framework.

Central leader or pyramid - A more modern method as it takes less space and trees can be kept narrow.

Espalier - An ideal method of training and pruning where space is limited.

Once you have decided on which shape you want you prune to achieve that. Always remember that the strongest new growth will come from the first bud below where the pruning cut is made

In years 1 and 2 prune hard to make sturdy framework and shape the tree

When planting, select 3 or 4 strong branches and reduce by 2/3 to outwards facing bud. Remove all other growth

-Pruning for continuous fruiting and maintaining shape of established trees.

This is relatively easy once you know where the fruit will form.

Apples, pears, quinces, plums, and apricots fruit on the same spurs for several years. New spurs form as old ones die.

Peaches and nectarines fruit on one year old wood. That is, the wood grown last year will carry fruit this year. Hence when pruning do not cut this wood out, but shorten it only and, or remove only some of it. 

Apples
Bear fruit on spurs and 2 year old + laterals
Allow lateral branches to develop uncut until buds form
Then trim back about 2/3 each year
Thin out some if tree becomes overcrowded

Apricot
Also bear on laterals and spurs
Treat as for apples

Cherries
Fruit on spurs on 2 year old + wood
Require little pruning, apart from trimming and thinning
Prune in autumn

Peaches and Nectarines
Bear fruit on laterals produced previous summer
Laterals fruit for one season only
Prune to produce new laterals each year
Prune back to encourage new growth but don’t cut out all previous year’s growth

Plums
Bear fruit on 1 & 2 year old laterals
Require little pruning
Thin and trim back as required to maintain tree at reasonable size

Berry Pruning

Most berry fruits grow on bushes or vines. Hence there is little required to shaping.

Pruning for continuous crops and to keep the bush or vine under control, requires some attention.

Raspberries -Upright canes and fruit on new season’s growth which originates from the previous year’s new canes that have emerged from the soil.

-Therefore in July, cut out all old canes which carried last season’s crop. These canes are distinguished from the one year canes which you want to retain, by their grey colour, and usually by this time are dry brittle wood.

-The canes to be retained tend to be light brown in colour and still very green and alive. These retained canes can then be shortened back to about two thirds their height.

-Tying 4 - 5 canes together at the top is a common practice to help keep them upright when new growth starts in spring.

The new canes for the following year’s crop will emerge and grow in late spring summer. They will require tying up for support. Suckers that emerge 20 cm or more away from the base should be removed.

Boysenberries and Blackberries require to be grown on a fence / wire support for the long limp canes. They fruit on new season’s growth which originates from vines grown the previous summer - autumn.

In many areas, blackberries will also fruit on current season’s growth which means they can be cut back hard in winter.

In July prune out all old canes that carried fruit last season, and tie up all the new canes that have been grown through the autumn.

Currants fruit on wood grown the previous season as well as older wood. Hence, in July prune out really old wood and shorten the bush by about one quarter to keep it contained.

Gooseberries fruit on spurs which last several years, but best fruit is on young ones, so cut out aged wood.

Blueberries fruit on wood grown the previous season. Therefore to both keep the bush under control and to maintain good fruiting, prune the growth that has carried the crop as soon as it is picked, in summer. This encourages new growth from a lower level maintaining a compact bush. Water well in summer to encourage this new growth.

Grapes require a support which could be a fence or pergola. Initial pruning will be to establish the main leaders. Once this has been done, prune for fruiting.

Grapes fruit on new season’s growth. Hence in July, cut back to within one - two buds of the main leaders.

Watch out for our Berry Pruning Demonstration in store.